Basic knowledge of cloth

I. The characteristics of the fabric-each fabric has its own characteristics, which is its own condition and performance.

The characteristics of the material can be divided into raw fiber raw materials, weaving method, texture, weight, hand feeling, finishing, wearing and cleaning performance.

Briefly explain the weave, texture, weight, and wearing performance of the fabric.

1. Weaving method: fabrics include woven fabrics and knitted fabrics. Most of our garments are woven fabrics. The most common woven fabrics include plain weave and twill weave, which refers to the body of the yarn that is woven vertically and horizontally. The structure is related to the texture, texture and feel of the fabric.

2. Texture: Each material has its own organizational structure. Due to the difference in material and weaving, different tactile/visual effects are produced. Such as: smooth and shiny cotton cloth, soft and light yarn, etc. An original cosplay dress attaches great importance to texture, so be careful when choosing fabrics and discuss cutting methods and materials with the tailor.

3. Weight: The weight of fabric usually refers to G/M, (how many grams per meter). Needless to say, if you want a more elegant effect, you must choose a lighter fabric, and vice versa. For example, outer jackets, skirts, pants, etc. are mostly made of heavier fabrics, while shirts are made of lighter fabrics. In addition, the fabrics are also closely related to the season. Basically, heavier fabrics are used in autumn and winter, and spring and summer. Upper will and lighter fabric.

4. Wearing and cleaning performance: Wearing performance refers to whether the clothes are durable, and cleaning performance refers to whether the clothes can be changed by machine or need to be washed by hand or dry cleaned. This is very important for everyday clothes, but for cosplay clothes, it can be ignored in general. Sometimes in order to achieve the original BT effect, it is necessary to use very troublesome fabrics, and the clothes are not worn frequently, which will sacrifice the wearability and the convenience of cleaning.

II. Classification of fabrics

Cloth actually has multiple meanings, and it is called textile fiber according to the material of the cloth.

Although there are many varieties of textile fibers, they can basically be divided into two categories: natural fibers and chemical fibers:

★Natural fibers refer to textile fibers found in nature or directly obtained from artificially cultivated animals.

★Chemical fiber is a textile fiber manufactured by a certain method using natural or synthetic polymers as raw materials.

★Man-made fibers refer to fibers that take natural high polymers (such as wood, bagasse or animal fiber, etc.) as raw materials and undergo certain processing and spinning.

★Synthetic fiber is a fiber made of synthetic polymer giant spinning with petroleum, coal, natural gas and some agricultural and sideline products as raw materials.

1. Natural fiber properties

（1）、Cotton

1. Strong moisture absorption, comfortable to wear, easy to dye, and easy to shrink.

2. Alkali and acid resistance, mercerized cotton is cotton fabric treated with caustic soda.

3. Cotton fiber is relatively heat-resistant, but it is not suitable for long-term treatment at a temperature above 100 degrees. For example, if the ironing temperature is around 190 degrees, the cotton fabric will spray wet when ironing, which is good for ironing.

4. Cotton fiber is soft and weak, cotton fabric feels good, comfortable to wear, washable, but easy to wrinkle, suitable for all kinds of clothing and bedding in all seasons.

（2)、hemp

There are many varieties of hemp, including ramie, flax, jute, hemp, etc.; the former are the first two that are used more in fabrics. Hemp and cotton have some of the same properties.

1. Strong hygroscopicity, alkali and acid resistance.

2. The heat resistance is also good, the ironing temperature can reach 190 degrees-210 degrees, easy to burn.

3. The strength is higher than that of cotton, the hemp fiber is harder and weaker, the fabric is easy to wrinkle, and it is stiffer and cooler than cotton fabric. The so-called summer cloth is the ramie fabric that southerners love to wear, and it does not fit snugly after sweating.

Ramie is a good quality fiber among the hemp fibers. It has the characteristics of coolness, moisture absorption, breathability, etc., and has high stiffness, rigidity, stiffness, and non-fitting. It is suitable for making summer clothes. Ramie and polyester are blended and processed to produce "hemp really good", with a cool style.

（3）、Hair

Wool, which uses a large amount of wool for textiles, is usually called wool.

Wool fibers are thicker and longer than cotton fibers, have a certain degree of curl, and their surface is covered by a layer of scales. Due to the presence of scales, it brings a special property to wool, that is, milling. The milling property refers to the property that wool is kneaded in warm water and washing liquid to bite and shrink. In daily life, the wool product shrinks after washing, the density becomes larger, and the milling is one of the reasons. If the scales are destroyed to make it appear smooth and flat, the wool product will not be milled. Therefore, machine washable sweaters on the market have undergone this surface treatment.

Use less, slightly.

（4）、Silk

Natural silk is divided into domestic silk and wild silk, domestic silk is mulberry silk; the main species of wild silk is Zitus silk. Silk has high strength, slender fiber, soft and smooth, weaker than cellulose fiber, and has a unique luster. Silk fabrics are tired and thin like yarn, but also make them plump and enterprising. It is Gaoren's clothing material and belongs to protein fiber like wool.

Unless it is a very willing cos, it is rare to use such exaggerated and expensive fibers. slightly.

2、The nature of chemical fiber

★As clothing materials, the seven major elements are the main ones, and their common characteristics are as follows:

A. The hygroscopicity is generally lower than that of natural fibers, and it is easy to be electrostatically charged after friction and easy to absorb dust.

B. Most of them have high strength, good elasticity and easy to fluff after wearing for a long time.

C generally softens and shrinks first when it burns, and some can melt, produce dripping wire drawing, give off a peculiar smell, and the ironing temperature is lower than that of natural fiber.

D has better heat setting properties, and because of their low hygroscopicity, they can remain intact after washing.

（1）、Polyester (really good)

It is the fastest growing fiber in the current chemical fiber. Commonly known as indeed good. The spun silk fabrics made of it include soft yarn, Julie yarn, Jiarisi, as well as the so-called "linen yarn" which is popular among ladies in the summer market. The blend of polyester and cotton is called cotton (cotton-polyester), blended with wool as wool-polyester, and warm-spun with hemp as hemp-polyester, etc. Its characteristics: sultry, airtight, not easy to dye, static electricity after friction, easy to absorb dust , But not easy to shrink, easy to wash, quick-drying.

（2）、Nylon (nylon, nylon, capron)

Commonly known as nylon, nylon, capron, etc., its characteristics: good elasticity, high strength, high abrasion resistance, poor light resistance, easy to yellow in the sun, commonly used in socks, gloves and knitted sportswear.

（3）、Acrylic (Aulon, Cashmere, Axlon)

It has the characteristics of fluffy, softness and warmth, such as light weight, low price, bright color, high temperature, no mildew and no moth, no need to scald after washing. Suitable for autumn and winter clothing fabrics, such as acrylic sweaters, spun fur coats, and blankets, etc.

（4)、Vinylon (Vinylon, Yarn, Cokelon)

After blending vinylon and cotton, it became the once popular vinylon cloth in the domestic market. Vinylon fabric is very similar to cotton cloth, and the properties of synthetic fibers are the closest to cotton fiber. Since vinylon is less used in clothing in our country and mostly used in bedding, it will not be introduced here.

（5)、Viscose

The raw materials are natural materials, such as wood, bamboo, cotton linters, bagasse, etc. The spun fiber is also called rayon, and its fabrics include beautiful silk, Fuchun spinning, artificial soft satin, artificial cotton, artificial wool and so on. Its characteristics are as follows:

1. High hygroscopicity and flammable.

2. The surface is smooth and the hand feels soft. The drape of viscose fabric is greater than that of cotton and linen, so it is suitable for skirts and various clothing fabrics and linings.

（6)、Vinegar (ester, acid) fiber (vitamin)

Most of them appear in silk style, in addition to clothing fabrics, they are also commonly used as linings.

（7)、Spandex (Marydang, Lycra)

It has high elasticity like rubber, so it is also called elastic fiber. It can be used instead of rubber bands, but the current price is more expensive.

1. High elasticity, high elasticity unmatched by other fibers, and good abrasion resistance.

2. The face does not lose its elasticity in the cold, wind, snow or sun.

III fabric sign

1、Cotton：

Advantages: sweat-absorbent, breathable, soft, anti-sensitive, easy to clean, not easy to fluff.

Disadvantages: easy to wrinkle, shrink and deform.

2、Wool：

Advantages: warmth, soft hair, good elasticity, and strong heat insulation.

Disadvantages: easy to pilling, shrinking, and felting reaction.
　　
3、Skin：

Advantages: a certain degree of breathing performance, high durability, high temperature resistance.

Color: The color of leather is dark, bright and soft, while imitation leather is bright.

4、Nylon：

Advantages: smooth surface, lighter, durable, easy to wash and dry, fixed elasticity and flexibility.

Disadvantages: easy to generate static electricity.

5、Polyester fiber：

Advantages: good elasticity, silky soft, not easy to soft, soft hair.

Disadvantages: poor ventilation, easy to generate static electricity and hair balls.

6、Cotton：

Natural fabric, comfortable to wear, breathable, warm, but easy to wrinkle, difficult to care, poor durability, easy to fade.

Hemp:

9、Natural fabric, comfortable, light, breathable, but easy to wrinkle, not stiff, poor elasticity, and itchy skin when wearing.

8、Wash：

The chemical fiber fabric is easy to care for, stiff, no ironing, but poor air permeability, easy to generate static electricity, and not easy to dye.

9、Wire：

Smooth and soft, good texture, colorful, but not easy to care for, easy to wrinkle and shrink.

10、Silk：

The luster is soft, the hand feels soft and delicate.

Rayon: metallic luster, rough hand feel.

11. Silk——The fabric is luster, soft and bright, soft and smooth, less prone to wrinkles, and has a certain degree of stretchability.

12. Real silk and rayon

1. Real silk: soft hand feeling, full of elasticity, soft moon and silk sound;

Rayon: feel slightly stiff, clammy and heavy.

2. The luster of silk fabric is quieter, brighter and not dazzling; rayon fabric has a unique metal-like luster, which is brighter and dazzling than silk fabric.

3. After holding the fabric tightly with your hands, let it go, the wrinkles of silk fabrics are few but not obvious, and the wrinkles of rayon fabrics are more.

6. Viscose-the gloss is brighter than cotton cloth, the appearance is finer and quieter than cotton cloth, the hand feels softer and smoother, the bones are softer and heavier, lack of elasticity, kneading is easy to wrinkle, and the wrinkle is easy to recover.

This identification method can roughly distinguish fabrics, but it has certain limitations. For blended textiles, it is sometimes difficult to make the identification, but the sensory identification method is simple and easy to perform, and can be performed without damaging the clothes, and is suitable for general daily use.

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